The Goroka Mudmen & Other Tales
Marilyn April 7th, 2008
Whilst moored in Madang Lagoon, 27 of us chartered a plane for the short flight to Goroka to see the famed Mudmen. Those who remained on board had the option of just having a relaxed look around the town and markets, a more involved tour which included a trip to the village of Bilbil (famous for its pots) for a sing-sing, or go scuba diving.
The mudmen were fascinating and the trip also involved visiting a coffee plantation, museum and the local Goroka markets.
Since the Australians departed PNG the economy is fragile with, we’re told, corruption rife. The traditional clan (Wontok) system does not blend well with democracy and it will probably take a couple of generations for this country to get its act together. Nevertheless, the people we met were happy, healthy and many spoke English — compliments of the various church groups that still hold sway in PNG. Of course we did not visit Moresby and Lae where things are more chaotic.
In the Milne Bay area we visited a tiny island on Easter Sunday and attended the lovely stone church for a service. The harmonising voices of 100 locals soared above the pounding of a tropical storm. These people are strong, with deep faith.
Francis and I are a bit over travel as hard slog, so when a friend recommended that we see PNG aboard the expedition ship ‘Orion’, it sounded right up our alley. This Australian owned, small luxury ship (takes 100 passengers with 70 crew) is part owned by Paspaley Pearls and everything about it spells class. Menus are by Serge Dansereau (of Bathers Pavilion fame) and the food was superb. Likewise, the service, spaceous cabins, friendly efficient staff … absolutely flawless.
Bruno Loubet has headed up the kitchen at Baguette for almost a year now, and without doubt he is the best head chef we have had in 31 years of operation … and we’ve employed some pretty good chefs. He comes from traditional French training and upbringing and in his early 20s became a celebrity chef in England. He was Raymond Blanc’s head chef at Le Manoir aux Quat’Saison (2 Michelin stars) at 24 years old, and earned his own Michelin star at Four Seasons at 29 years. He went on to open his own restaurant, Bruno’s Bistrot, and it was voted Best New Restaurant in the UK. A TV series and 2 books followed.
This “find” is described by Elizabeth Meryment in The Australian: Hotel du Nord at 102 quai de Jammapes in Paris’s rapidly gentrifying 10th arrondissement is where the beautiful people hang out. This is Paris’s it spot on the Canal St. Martin. Sleek bodies are collected on the terrace, smoking and sipping wine. Built is 1885 as a rough-and-ready watefront inn, the property has endured fluctuating fortunes. After narrowly avoiding demolition in the 1960s, it has been rediscovered in recent years and given a sensitive renovation … avoiding the minimalism rampant in many Paris venues it has soft light, filled bookshelves, antique coffee machine and plush sofas chanelling a nightclub of the 1930s.
